Anyone who has ever shopped for a diamond
knows that two stones that look similar to the naked eye may have
dramatically different price tags.
To help you make a more informed diamond buying decision, Diamonds
International offers the following explanation of how stones are rated
according to the “4 C’s” of diamond quality – and the impact these factors
can have on the price of your stone.
Carat
– This refers to the weight of a diamond. Carats are the measure of weight
for most gemstones, with one carat equaling approximately 200 milligrams
(0.2 grams). There are 142 carats to an ounce. Carats are further divided
into points, with one carat equaling 100 points. All other properties being
equal, larger diamonds are rarer than smaller ones and thus more expensive.
For instance, a one carat stone will generally cost more than a 95 pointer
(0.95 carat).
Clarity
– This refers to the presence of surface or internal flaws within a diamond
caused during its formation or during the cutting process. When the marks
occur on the surface, they are known as blemishes. When they occur
internally, they are called inclusions. All diamonds have such flaws.
Inclusions and other flaws can interfere with the passage of light through a
stone, diminishing its sparkle. Therefore, the fewer (or smaller) the
inclusions, the more valuable the diamond. In the rarest and most expensive
diamonds, the inclusions are too tiny to see even at 10X magnification,
which is why these stones are called “flawless” (FL) or “internally
flawless” (IF) according to the clarity grading system used by the
Gemological Institute of America (GIA). At the other end of the spectrum are
“imperfect” stones (I1, I2, I3 grades) with
visible faults that mar their beauty. In between are “very, very slightly
included” (VVS1, VVS2 grades); “very slightly
included” (VS1 and VS2 grades); and “slightly
included” (SI1, SI2 grades).
Color
– This refers to the presence or absence of color in white diamonds. The
body color of a white diamond can range from colorless to light yellow. Even
the slightest hint of color can have a negative impact on a white diamond’s
value. (The exception would be “fancy” natural colored diamonds, which come
in pink, blue, green, yellow, brown, red and other hues and are valued
according to the richness and depth of their color). Most white diamonds are
graded on the GIA color scale that begins with “D” for colorless and
continues all the way down to “Z,” with the yellow tint becoming more
visible to the naked eye as you move down the alphabet. Keep in mind that
even stones in the lower range of the color scale can appear colorless in
the right jewelry setting. For instance, yellow metal (gold) hides traces of
color in a white diamond, while white metals like platinum and white gold
enhance stone color and are therefore a better choice for white diamonds at
the higher end of the color spectrum (such as D-F).
Cut
– This refers to the execution of a diamond’s design, the skill in which it
was cut, the quality of its polish, and the overall symmetry of the stone.
Each diamond is cut according to an exact mathematical formula. The most
common shape, the round brilliant, has 58 facets, or small, flat polished
planes designed to yield the maximum amount of light to be reflected back to
the viewer. This reflection, known as brilliance, is extremely important in
evaluating a diamond’s quality and value. Other common diamond shapes
include emerald/rectangular, marquise, pear, oval and square/princess.
Although there are several systems for determining the quality of a
diamond’s cut, they can be broadly characterized as Ideal, Excellent, Very
Good, Good, Fair and Poor. In Ideal and Excellent cut stones, most or all of
the light that enters the diamond is reflected back to the eye. Meanwhile, a
diamond with a Poor cut is off in its proportions and loses most of its
light out the sides and bottom. In other words, a well-cut diamond has the
right angles and proportions to maximize its fire and sparkle, while a
poorly cut diamond is dull and may even have some “dead” spots inside.