The acoustical qualities of the Master
Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre surpass all expectations. Its
crystalline chime, which has an exceptional purity and intensity of sound,
is the fruit of an extraordinary collaboration between stars of the music
world and the watchmakers and technicians of the Jaeger-LeCoultre
Manufacture. In addition, its manually-wound mechanism is endowed with an
astonishing 15-day (360-hour) power reserve, proudly shown off in a dial
display, as well as a torque indicator. This masterpiece of refinement and
sophistication has an openwork face which reveals the harmonious workings
operation of the repeater mechanism and comes in a limited edition of 200 in
platinum 950.
Watches that by their very existence throw downpose a challenge to
unanimously respected horological principles can be counted on the fingers
of one hand. The Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre is one such
creation. First impressions do not deceive with this worthy exemplar of the
Master Control line whose classic and elegant design has become a byword for
good horological breeding.
Uniquely combining an exceptional level of watchmaking excellence with
musical qualities that make it the equal of the most prestigious musical
instruments, it is a perfect illustration of the Manufacture's philosophy.
The engineers and watchmakers of the Le Sentier Manufacture have pulled out
all the stops this time. As ever, they began by mastering the time-honoured
techniques of yesteryear and then went beyond them, drawing on contemporary
methods and technologies in order to break through the barriers that had
limited the creations of bygone eras.
A Feat of Watchmaking Skill
The technical challenge of a repeater watch lies in creating a mechanism
capable of reading the time on the watch hands and then translating it into
a series of tones that chime out the hours, quarter-hours and minutes. The
minute repeater's barrel spring stores up the requisite energy while the
hour, quarter and minute rakes racks so named because of their serried teeth
are engaged and fall into position. An ingenious decoupling
disconnecting-gear system makes it possible to disable the chime wheel and
the centrifugal regulator while this happens. The two gongstimbres' hammers
then move out of position to let the rakes racks through hence the reason
for never resetting a repeater mechanism while it is ringing.
Next, the energy from the barrel spring is released and a regulator acts to
ensure a constant speed in the striking of the gongtimbre hammers, made
possible by means of the friction of jewels against a polished nickel-silver
surface, which ensures that no parasytic excess noise is created.
Sound quality is heavily dependent on the brevity and precision of the
striking motion. If the hammer remains in contact with the timbre gong for
longer than is necessary, the resulting vibrations will be severely affected
and the quality of the sound will suffer accordingly. The adjustment of the
hammer is one of the key and most delicate elements in the creation of a
high-quality minute repeater.
To underline the richness and quality of their work, Jaeger-LeCoultre's
engineers decided to make the deck plate and bridges of the hand-decorated
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 947 out of nickel silver.
This wondrous movement is endowed with the most capacious power reserve of
any existing watch with complications 15 days. This guarantees a lengthy
period during which the watch works with absolute precision (12 days) and so
liberates the watch's fortunate owner from the responsibility of having to
remember to rewind his precious timepiece every day.
There is another surprise: the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 947 comes equipped
with a mechanism to measure the torque in the barrels. Offering a
complementary function to the more standard power reserve indicator, this
torque-meter gives visual expression to the period in which the watch is
working with optimum precision. This display is all the more important owing
thanks to the generosity of the power reserve. The amplitude of the balance
wheel is directly governed by the torque. A constant torque ensures a
constant amplitude in any given position and therefore optimum precision.
Not content with achieving this extraordinary watchmaking feat, Jaeger-LeCoultre
also made a point of improving considerably another key aspect of the
repeater watch: its sound. There was a limit to the acoustical knowledge of
even the most musical of the Manufacture's watchmakers and engineers.
It was therefore necessary to call in acknwledged known specialists in the
field and, in particular, a conductor who worked closely with those in
charge of the project in order to endowed the Master Minute Repeater Antoine
LeCoultre with a sound of a richness and purity unprecedented in a
wristwatch. As is often the case when masters from different disciplines
pool their talents, the results exceeded all realistic expectations.
Naturally, experience told the watchmakers that it was essential to
determine as precisely as possible the exact spot where the hammers should
strike the timbre’s gongs. Traditional wisdom has it that this should be as
close as possible to the timbre's gongs fastening in order to produce the
most perfect sound possible. More exacting research revealed that the ideal
point of contact depended on the timbre's gong's dimensions.
Another important detail: a timbre gong does not ring, it vibrates. Unlike a
bell which, as everyone knows, rings and therefore transmits itself by means
of air waves, a timbre gong merely vibrates. This resolved once and for all
the old problem of trying to waterproof a minute repeater: the case does not
need to emit a sound but rather a vibration, so that the element that turns
vibration into sound can actually be positioned on the outside of the case.
Furthermore, in order to ensure that all of the timbre's gong's vibrations
are released instead of being reabsorbed into the timbre gong itself,
thereby polluting the purity of the sound, the materials used for the its
fastening need to transmit the vibrations at a greater speed than the timbre
gong itself.
Since the timbres gongs are made of steel, the choice of materials was
limited: aside from steel itself, only quartz, sapphire, beryllium and
diamond had the necessary qualities. That is why the technicians chose
sapphire crystal to act as the sound transmitter on the Master Minute
Repeater, using the latest technology to weld the stainless-steel heel of
the timbres gong onto it in order cut out vibration loss.
All measurements were made using a traditional microphone, positioned at a
set distance from the sound source, as well as a laser to cut out ambient
interference.
The specialist team at Jaeger-LeCoultre worked tirelessly to define and then
refine each of these parameters. The result is astonishing. The Master
Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre produces a tone of unprecedented quality.
At over 55 decibels and with durations of over 600 milliseconds and a
richness of seven partials, the sound produced exceeds anything previously
achieved by a wristwatch. Even those with a comparatively unmusical ear will
recognise and appreciate the difference immediately.
The spirit of Antoine LeCoultre
A tireless quest for perfection: the whole history of Jaeger-LeCoultre can
be summed up in this simple phrase. The name of the Manufacture's great
founder, Antoine LeCoultre (b. 1803), could only be legitimately invoked in
connection with a creation of the greatest virtuosity which combined the
best of traditional approaches with the avant-garde innovations of a new
generation of watchmakers. In the Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre
the exceptional becomes the rule, and extraordinary watchmaking prowess is
coupled with musical research in a way that is only really conceivable in
the legendary Le Sentier Manufacture, where all the arts and skills of
watchmaking are still practised.
A complication to enchant watch connoisseurs
Repeater watches were invented in the days before electric light in order to
provide an acoustic indication of the progress of the hours during the
night. The charm of being able to hear the striking of the hours,
quarter-hours and minutes on demand, however, was such that the minute
repeater quickly established itself as one of the favourite complications
among connoisseurs of Haute Horlogerie.
With the Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre, the story of repeater
movements has reached a new high a timepiece of such extraordinary
mechanical, aesthetic and acoustic refinement could only have been conceived
and brought to life within the Manufacture that, since its foundation, has
devoted itself indefatigably tirelessly to the pursuit of perfection.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre:
The Technical characteristics
Movement:
• manually wound mechanical manually-wound movement, the Jaeger-LeCoultre
Calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre 947, made crafted and decorated by hand
• 21,600 vibrations an per hour
• 15-day power reserve, double barrel parts
• 41 jewels
• 8.95 mm high
Functions:
• hours, minutes
• power reserve
• barrel torque indicator
• minute repeater
Dial:
openwork silvered sunray-patterned, revealing the movement, applied numerals
and hour-markers in rhodium-plated gold,12 luminescent dots
Hands:
• hours and minutes: alpha in rhodium-plated brass
• others: rhodium-plated brass, blue varnish
Crown:
1 crown to start the watch and set the hours and minutes
1 sliding bolt to activate the minute-repeater function
Case:
• 44 mm in platinum 950, in a limited edition of 200
• cambered sapphire crystal, hardness n°9
• sapphire crystal base case-back revealing through which the movement can
be viewed
• water -resistant to 50 metres
Strap:
• matt grey alligator leather 22/18 and 18 mm folding buckle clasp in
platinum 950
Reference:
• platinum 950: 164 64 20